
Some of the seasonal candied fruit/veg here in Mexico... I was not bold enough to eat a whole pumpkin
As many of my fellow bloggers have discussed, this is one of the best times of year to be in Mexico City– during the Dia de los Muertos celebrations. Preparation for this fascinating holiday begins during the last week or two of October, with activities reaching their peak on November 1 & 2. Wikipedia offers a decent general overview of the history, but in a nutshell, it is a time to remember & honor deceased friends and family. Visually this takes the form of ofrendas (offerings, or altars) in people’s homes & on display in many public venues as well.

One of the traditional images of Catrina, the classic skeletal, elegant female associated with Dia de los Muertos in Mexico. (here depicted with flower petals, salt, dirt, etc.)
These altars are beautifully decorated with flowers, petals, other brightly colored elements that form designs, sugar skulls, the favorite food/drink of the deceased, etc. Additionally, market vendors are in full force selling Dia de los Muertos-related decor & food, particularly Pan de Muerto (a.k.a. “dead bread”, a tasty sugared bun or loaf w/a light orange taste to it). We didn’t make any major treks out of the area to the most popular venues for celebrating this holiday (i.e. Patzcuaro in Michoacan and Mixquic just southeast of DF). However, we did manage visits to Mercado Jamaica, Coyoacan (incl. the Frida Kahlo Museum & Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares- thanks to Ruth for the recommendation!), and the Edgar Allen Poe-themed ofrendas on display at UNAM.
A few photos of all the action below!

I bought several of these "papel picados" (cut paper) at Mercado Jamaica in various colors with a variety of fun, friendly skeleton themes...

These were just a few of the calaveras de azucar (sugar skulls) for sale at Jamaica. The chocolate ones looked good enough to eat...

My favorite little white flower dogs from my last visit to Mercado Jamaica were now decked out in their festive Halloween best.
Next, off to Coyoacan… On Saturday, activities were still underway to finish assembling the ofrendas, so it was interesting to see the creation process in action.

We first stopped at the Frida Kahlo museum, aka her "Casa Azul" near the heart of Coyoacan. Despite not being a Frida history expert, I must say the museum was quite interesting & really well done... Seeing her house & gardens and getting a few snippets of her life w/Diego Rivera was time well spent.
Next, we wandered through Hidalgo Square where a number of ofrendas were in progress…

Ironically, many flowers died to create the amazing images for this holiday... particularly marigolds and cockscombs...

Next, onto the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares, entrance shown above. Entry was free this Saturday, but normally it is a mere 11 pesos and they had an interesting exhibition about sugar that could still be worth a peek post-holiday. Here's John bonding w/his mother-in-law. :)

Inside the museum, they had some excellent vendors selling Dia de los Muertos food & crafts. We were particularly impressed by this table of Catrinas.

In fact, we liked them enough that we made purchased two new little friends (for a grand total of $460 pesos, which seemed reasonable despite our lack of calavera-price-benchmarking)! I have to say, it is fascinating how the more you see things as a normal part of culture, the more they grow on you... If you had told me before we moved down here that I would someday purchase an 18-inch-tall trendily-dressed skeleton woman + a fat cowboy skeleton with a dead rooster at his feet, I wouldn't have believed you for a minute. :)

One of the hot controversies in Coyoacan is that after they remodeled the main square, they kicked all the street vendors out & relocated them to the Frida Kahlo Garden, a few blocks southeast of the square. The vendors are displeased, but I will say they are in a lovely area--especially when the main fountain is covered in flower petals.

The wee skeleton figurines are always good for a laugh-- my mom purchased one of the dog+vet options that was the spitting image of our Jack Russell terrier Dave back in Nebraska. Note the pile of cheery horse-drawn hearses in the back... (From the main mercado in Coyoacan)

Also inside the Mercado Coyoacan, we visited the Tostadas Coyoacan stall for a late morning snack. My mom's guide book informed us this is *the* original spot & not to be fooled by the mimics nearby. I can vouch--both the drinks & seafood here were AMAZING. I recommend an agua de sandia (watermelon) and a tostada de camaron (shrimp). Look at those piles of seafood, people!!
My mom headed back for Nebraska yesterday, and then today John & I drove down to check out UNAM (the largest university in the Americas) & the ofrendas in homage to Edgar Allen Poe set up outside near the library. We gave these the verdict of “amusing, but we’ve seen better”. Here are a couple of the more interesting ones, however…

I should know my Poe stories better... Anybody know the story where someone is cut in half or loses a head via an improvised guillotine?

One of the popular themes was a cemetary with headstones citing each of Poe's best known works. We were able to quickly identify "The Tell-tale Heart" and "The Pit and the Pendulum"... Some gravestones seemed a bit redundant; not sure if the students got a bit lazy in their Poe research?
This is just a smattering of the Dia de los Muertos action here in Mexico City, and as you can see, it’s a really interesting time to be here & learn more about one of the most important holidays in Mexico (second only to Dia de Guadalupe, we’re told!). Mark your calendars now for next year, people!! In closing, I’ll leave you with a decorating idea in case you have any blank walls in your house waiting for a theme…








on Nov 3rd, 2009 at 11:53 am
Wow. Looks like you guys had a great time! Mexico City does a hell of a lot more than snobby ole Guadalajara! Next year we’ll flip a coin for either D.F or Patzcuaro! Thanks for posting these photos!
on Nov 3rd, 2009 at 12:20 pm
Maybe the Edgar Allen Poe altar that looks like a guillotine is a reference to “The Pit and the Pendulum.”
on Nov 3rd, 2009 at 1:00 pm
Loved the post and the pictures. GREAT.
on Nov 6th, 2009 at 11:34 am
Julie, very nice post about the Day of the Dead celebrations. Great pictures!! Especially liked the Sugar Skulls pic.
Thanks for posting your article on our Facebook page.
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on Nov 6th, 2009 at 9:17 pm
Love the pics although not very convinced about seeing so many skeletons in my birthday!, still shocking and for some reason feeling even older, jajjaja
on Nov 11th, 2009 at 11:18 am
Wow! Those pics are amazing - great post. I got the feeling that Veracruz does not celebrate the day as much as other areas, looks like I was right. But I still enjoyed it here
on Nov 16th, 2009 at 5:15 pm
Great post, thanks for the tour around the DF!
Mexico Cooks! is devoting the whole month of November to articles (and lots of photos!) about the Day of the Dead in Michoacán. Start with November 7:
http://mexicocooks.typepad.com/mexico_cooks/2009/11/day-of-the-dead-2009-in-p%C3%A1tzcuaro-michoac%C3%A1n.html
and read forward. The article for Nov 14 is up now, and a new article will be up on Nov 21 and Nov 28.
Have fun reading.