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Cabo San Lucas

Baja California Sur Roadtrip: Part 2- Los Cabos

In follow up to my prior post regarding our Baja California Sur roadtrip, we continued on from Todos Santos to Cabo San Lucas, the most well-known spot for tourists. I will admit to being a bit skeptical of visiting Cabo prior to our arrival… I feared the existence of too many all-inclusive resorts & too many frogs:

Señor Frog, as spotted from afar, surrounded by scantily clad young-uns.

I was also wary of cruise ships & young girls getting their hair done in those horribly-unattractive really tight braids along their scalps by roving beach braiders.

In my nightmare, this cruise ship would suddenly speed to shore, disgorge all of its buffet-laden passengers, and surround me while that guy in the white t-shirt turned his hair-braiding attention on my locks.

As it turned out, I actually really enjoyed our visit!  Friend Heidi will attest that she had to convince me that we should spend two nights there, but as I told her later, it was a great choice. What turned me around on Cabo San Lucas, you may wonder?

1) Finding a sweet lodging deal on www.vrbo.com

I got a little obsessed with the Vacation Rentals By Owner website during our time in Mexico, as there were so many amazing properties at really reasonable prices. We had 5 people in our group in Cabo San Lucas, which was the perfect number for investigating a VRBO alternative to 2 or 3 hotel rooms.

We found Casa de Mario (http://www.vrbo.com/272874) located in Medano Beach, which was my top neighborhood of choice in Cabo. This spot has 3 beds/3.5 baths, is 300 yards from the beach, has a fully-outfitted kitchen, and even has a pool in the backyard. It was the perfect spot for our group as we could abandon our car & walk to everything, come back in the afternoon to refresh with a glass of wine in the air-conditioned living room, and whip up our own breakfast in the morning.  Owner Tim was super helpful & responsive, and even had some great restaurant recommendations to boot.  (See additional pics on his VRBO page above.)

John lauding over the pool at our VRBO house in Cabo San Lucas

FYI if you stay @ Tim's place, this is what the entrance looks like of the place he had us go to check in & get the keys.

2) Co-opting a large hotel’s beach chairs & pool for the day

We determined in advance that the only thing we’d really be missing out on by not staying in a large hotel was the primo beach location.  So on the nice sunny day that we wanted to spend reading on the beach in luxury, we had our best-dressed group member approach the gentleman standing guard around the beach chairs of one of the nicer hotels on Medano Beach. She asked if it would be possible for us to rent five chairs for the day. They quickly arrived at some reasonable agreement (maybe a few hundred pesos or so + our commitment to buy some food/drinks) to allow us free reign of the beach chairs, pool, and restrooms for the day.  Win-win, I say!Also, since we were inside the “velvet ropes” of the hotel property, all the beach vendors were preemptively shooed away from pestering us– bonus.

This is the hotel we ID'd as our target property for beach-sitting.

Cooling off in their gorgeous pool while sipping a cold beer was quite rewarding.

3) Breakfast on the beach at The Office

A quick walk from our door, the food here was solid & the views were great! A little Americanized? Maybe, but they had chilaquiles which gets a thumbs up from me. Sit in a ways from the perimeter of the tables to minimize interaction aforementioned beach vendors. Website is http://theofficeonthebeach.com/.  [Insert requisite joke here about this being the best office I’ve been to, etc.]

4) Great photo opps with cute garbage cans

What's not to love about these guys?

5) Great photo opps with the iconic rock formations off the coast

The girls looking artsy, outside of me in my dumpy Old Navy flatteringly-horizontal-striped t-shirt.

While we were too cheap to take a boat tour to actually see El Arco, it does look pretty sweet & probably merits a trip. :) VRBO owner Tim recommended the following folks that will treat you fairly: “POCHOS, across from the Marina, runs five boats of different sizes (Carlos or Gustavo 877-347-4275).   REDRUM Sportfishing is currently running seven boats, located on the Marina at the Marina Cabo Plaza Hotel.  John Donovan is the contact 617-335-2124.”

6) You’re on a nice beach

The beach! Not overrun with spring breakers!

More beach! This time looking from the other direction!

 7) People-Watching Extraordinaire!

Good diversity of tourists equals good diversity in people watching. We enjoyed this special photo opp happening below with a young boy plus various small dogs staged along a multi-part beach chair.

Is this man a professional photographer? Hard to know what's happening here.

Which one is the statue in traditional dress?

From a food perspective, Cabo San Lucas certainly has no shortage of restaurants. We went to Nicksan for our one fancy dinner, but you have a plethora of options for higher-end dining. The bigger challenge is probably getting recommendations for good, traditional Mexican places to eat! Ask around where you’re staying (but try to clarify you’re interested in where they go to eat, not where the closest Ruth’s Chris is) & follow the crowds of locals.

After our two nights in Cabo San Lucas, we headed out for lunch in San Jose del Cabo & back up the coast to La Paz. More to follow in our next installment!

Disclosure:  I am being compensated for my work in creating content as a Contributor for the México Today Program.  All stories, opinions and passion for all things México shared in my blog are completely my own.

Baja California Sur Roadtrip: Part 1-Todos Santos

When we assessed our options for a longer vacation in Mexico over Semana Santa last year, we asked ourselves the question that most tourists as themselves: what would Jennifer Aniston, Leonardo DiCaprio, & Cindy Crawford do for their vacations?   Well, as it turns out, what they would do is prance around in their swimsuits at an expensive resort in Cabo.  We decided to slightly modify that option by expanding it to all of Baja California Sur, spending less money, and minimizing the amount of time I would spend being photographed by paparazzi while scantily-clad (a constant battle, I assure you).  :)

I’d heard lots of rave reviews of Baja California Sur (even from non-celebrities!), so we plotted a Wednesday-through-Tuesday road trip to take in all the highlights over the long Easter weekend last year.  The plan was fly into La Paz, rent a car & head straight to Todos Santos (one of Mexico’s heralded Pueblos Mágicos).  We’d spend a night there, then two nights in Cabo San Lucas, then make a leisurely drive back to La Paz for three nights with a stop for lunch in San Jose del Cabo.

We had a bit of a rough start when we got bumped off our Wednesday afternoon flight from DF to La Paz for reasons yet-unknown.  But we didn’t want to admit defeat & return to our apartments, so we took Aeroméxico up on their offer to put us up in an airport hotel for the night.

Here we are, awaiting the arrival of the free shuttle to the Hotel Riazor in Mexico City... I think most of us look cheerier than how we were actually feeling at this stage.

As a side note here, for anyone in need of a hotel close to the Mexico City airport, the Hotel Riazor was actually decent/clean/convenient. For anyone in need of being in Baja California Sur, it was none of those things. :)

We made it out the next morning & arrived safely in La Paz, with great coastal views as we passed from the mainland to the peninsula.

A view of La Paz from the air

I will save the details of renting a car in Mexico for another day & time (note to self: investigate insurance options well in advance because the “but my US credit card covers rental cars!” argument doesn’t carry much water here), but we soon got on the road!  It’s about 55 miles from La Paz to Todos Santos.

Luckily driving around Baja California offers much clearer signage than Mexico City!

I wish I could offer a review of lodging in Todos Santos, but alas, our one night was foiled by our flight delay. However, I can tell you that I research hotels obsessively and had settled on Casa Bentley as the boutique hotel worthy of our love, so please check it out & report back!  The interesting thing about Todos Santos is that it doesn’t sit directly on the beach– but it’s only about a 5-minute drive or ~25 minute walk to get down to the beaches. Casa Bentley has a great map here to give you a better idea.

Clean & cute town square within Todos Santos

We spent some time wandering around the shops of tiny Todos Santos– definitely a cute little town, with kind of a up-and-coming San Miguel de Allende feel. (For those who’ve not visited San Miguel, this means lots of gringo-friendly stores & restaurants owned by a mix of Americans & Mexicans, lots of American artists peddling their wares, it’s easy to get by in English, and there’s a tendency towards gringo prices.)   It was a prime example of what John & I had realized several times during travel to more popular tourist destinations in Mexico– if we hadn’t been living in Mexico City for a year+, we would have considered the prices quite reasonable. But after living in “normal” Mexico, you become irrationally outraged at higher prices in tourist spots. :)

After eliminating a couple of the pricier restaurants I’d sussed out online, we decided to have lunch at the Hotel California at its La Coronela Restaurant & Bar.  (I think this menu is a couple years old, but it gives you an idea of the food.)  It was tasty & had fun decor + a nice palapa area to sit under outside in their courtyard.

I do love me some bull-themed decor...

...supplemented with fresh cala lilies!

Note requisite fountain + palapa in the distance! We arrived too late to snag an outdoor table-- popular spot.

After a final round of verifying that we didn’t need to make any large purchases, we took a few photos next to some noteworthy cacti and headed back to the car.

Here's the rest of the crew posing on the sidewalks of Todos Santos

My ~2 hours in Todos Santos did not allow me to suss out all that it had to offer, so I encourage you to review some other  assessments here, here, and here.  After our brief stop, we headed back out to our next destination– the famed Cabo San Lucas!  More to come on the sweet VRBO house we stayed in blocks from the beach in Cabo, followed by the best swimming I’ve ever had outside of La Paz!!

While you await my next post, keep yourself entertained wondering about this photo I snapped on the road from Todos Santos to Cabo:

"Hieleria" translates to "store that makes/sells ice". Note the sign in the middle-- No hay hielo!! There is no ice! Looks like there hasn't been ice at this spot for a while, folks...but the signage confirming that is appreciated.

And let this last photo lead you down the highway to Cabo San Lucas.... Will we see a celebrity??!? Watch and find out!

Disclosure:  I am being compensated for my work in creating content as a Contributor for the México Today Program.  All stories, opinions and passion for all things México shared in my blog are completely my own.

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